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@FT中文网【中国的葡萄酒泡沫】中国富人的青睐,加之香港政府2008年取消对葡萄酒和烈性酒征收进口关税,保证了葡萄酒需求的强劲增长。
2011年06月03日 06:26 AM

中国的葡萄酒泡沫
Chinese taste for wine grows

背景
中文 评论 打印 电邮 收藏
 

When a bottle of wine costs more at an auction than an undergraduate education at Harvard, some hear alarm bells ringing alongside the rap of the auctioneer’s gavel.

当一瓶葡萄酒在拍卖中的成交价超过了一名哈佛(Harvard)本科生的学费时,拍卖师的落槌声,在一些人听来就如同一记警钟。

But as the latest fine wine auction at Christie’s in Hong Kong last week showed Chinese interest in the market remains unsatiated.

但正如上周佳士得(Christie's)在香港举办的最新一期名酒拍卖会所显示出的那样,中国人对名酒市场的兴趣仍方兴未艾。

Chateau Latour vintages, a high end wine from Bordeaux, raked in a total of over HK$59m (US$7m), continuing the upward trajectory of these seasonal sales. Bids were, in keeping with recent trends, astronomical.

拉图庄(Chateau Latour)佳酿是产自法国波尔多地区的一款精品葡萄酒,总成交额超过5900万港元(合700万美元),延续了前几次季度拍卖的升势。与近来趋势相符的是,各件拍品的出价都高得异乎寻常。

A case of six Chateau Latour 1961 magnums (1.5 litres each) went for HK$1.8m, nearing Sotheby’s record-breaking sale last season when three bottles of Chateau Lafite-Rothschild 1869 were sold for $HK1.8m each. The highest amount paid last week for a single bottle was HK$540,000 for a Latour 1863 vintage.

一箱6瓶大瓶装(每瓶1.5公升)1961年的拉图庄佳酿以180万港元的高价成交,接近苏富比(Sotheby's)上一季度创下的拍卖纪录——当时,3瓶1869年的罗斯柴尔德拉菲(Lafite-Rothschild)拍出了每瓶180万港元的高价。上周的拍卖会上,一瓶1863年的拉图酒以54万港元的价格,创下全场最高单瓶酒成交价。

While collectors’ worship for Chateau Latour doesn’t quite match that for its more expensive counterpart, Chateau Lafite-Rothschild, last week’s aggressive in-house and online bidding indicated international demand for fine French wines remains strong.

尽管收藏者对拉图庄佳酿的追捧度,还远不及对更昂贵的名酒——罗斯柴尔德拉菲——的追捧,但上周雄心勃勃的内部及在线竞拍表明,法国名酒的国际需求依然强劲。

The Liv-ex Fine Wine 100 Index has recorded a steady rise of almost 40 per cent in the prices of fine wines over the past three years. Demand for wine, as was the case with art, was relatively resistant to the global financial crisis and prices recovered quickly. Interest from China’s wealthy and the removal of import duties on wine and spirits by the Hong Kong government in 2008 helped offset the impact of the financial crisis post Lehman’s collapse.

根据Liv-ex 100指数,过去3年,精品葡萄酒的价格稳步上涨了近40%。与艺术品一样,面对国际金融危机,葡萄酒需求表现出了一定的抗跌能力,且价格反弹迅速。中国富人的青睐,加之香港政府2008年取消对葡萄酒和烈性酒征收进口关税,都有助于抵消由雷曼兄弟(Lehman)倒闭引发的金融危机的影响。

The steep rise in prices has fuelled fears of a Bordeaux bubble, which are aired periodically, as with other rapidly inflating sectors of China’s economy. Shanghai-based economist, Andy Xie, makes such a case and attributes the bubble to, among other factors, speculative hoarding by Chinese traders and businesspeople looking to reap profits from escalating prices.

葡萄酒价格的急剧上涨,引发了人们对于波尔多葡萄酒出现泡沫的担忧——这种担心总会定期出现——就如同人们担心中国经济其它快速膨胀的行业也存在泡沫一样。上海经济学家谢国忠(Andy Xie)就是这一论点的支持者。他将葡萄酒泡沫归因于诸多因素,其中包括中国交易行和商人进行投机性囤酒,以期从价格飞涨中牟利。

But with auction houses selling nearly 100 per cent of scheduled lots, many to known connoisseurs and eager amateurs, such sentiment may seem premature.

但鉴于拍卖行几乎100%的计划拍品都能成交,而其中许多都由知名的品酒家和热切的业余爱好者购得,这种观点可能听上去有些草率。

Simon Tam, head of Christie’s wine department for China, remains optimistic about the growth of the wine market there.

佳士得中国区名酒部主管Simon Tam对于中国葡萄酒市场的发展前景仍十分乐观。

“People in China buy wine to drink and take pleasure in it, and more people buy to drink or invest in collecting rather than to trade…The wine market in China is only about 10 years old and growing, and these prices are part of the growth phase. When wine lovers’ collections are fulfilled, [the prices] will level off at some point, but it will not be a shock.”

“中国人买酒是为了喝,并乐在其中,更多人买酒不是喝了就是投资收藏,而不是用来交易……中国葡萄酒市场诞生仅10年,还在不断成长,价格飙涨是成长阶段的一部分。如果葡萄酒爱好者的收藏得到了满足,(价格)总有一天会趋稳,但不会出现暴跌。”

As more of China’s growing legions of millionaires acquire a taste for fine wine , their demand looks set to maintain the momentum of rising prices for some years to come.

中国不断庞大的富豪群体里,有越来越多的人开始对精品葡萄酒产生兴趣,这部分需求基本上保证了未来几年葡萄酒价格将保持不断上涨的势头。

译者/何黎

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